Last summer I went to Glacier National Park in Montana. See the big smile on my face here?
I wrote about the trip and posted some photos, most notably here and here and here. During the journey we passed through the small town of Cardston, Alberta, Canada and I noticed some signs on main street with the name Fay Wray on them.
Turns out, Wray [best known for her role in the 1933 King Kong movie] was born near Cardston and they have some sort of park named in her honor. [Regrettably, our schedule didn't permit an unscheduled stop to explore there.]
Tonight I was watching an episode of Jeopardy and Fay Wray was one of the answers. [I often wonder if celebrities measure their fame in part by when they become an answer on Jeopardy....] I didn’t know that her autobiography was called On the Other Hand. [I learned that in the Jeopardy question.] I just checked Amazon and the book, which got really good reviews, is out of print. [I can buy a used copy for as little as $6.00 though and apparently someone has a new paperback copy they're willing to let go for a mere $129.94 plus $3.99 s&h. Um... no thanks. I'll buy a used one.]
So now I feel like my little otoh blog here is just threee degrees of separation from King Kong. [Imagine me standing and beating my chest with my fists... coughing... sitting down now....]
A recent comment by Laura Eno reminded me of this one. I’ve told this story before as part of a longer post, but it’s one of my favorites.
My first trip outside the U.S. was to Costa Rica [a beautiful and friendly country and I highly recommend you go there]. I know only a little Spanish. [The basics, you know: Cerveza, Baño, ¿Tiene una hermana?] We relied on a phrase book and the English skills and good graces of our hosts to muddle our way through. One day we were sitting in a small restaurant and I was reading the menu posted on the wall. I saw the word “Perro” and thought, “I know that word! ‘Perro’ is ‘dog’. I have dos perro at home. Holy crap, do they really serve dog here?” Then I noticed that it was followed by another word that I recognized, “Caliente” — hot. Whew! Hot dogs on the menu I can handle….
Here are some of the details of my recent trip to Glacier National Park — stuff you don’t care about. But since I haven’t really done anything worth writing about since my return I may as well get another post [or two?] out of it. [I did have a dream a couple nights ago in which I was wearing my pants inside-out. I have no idea whether that means anything and it certainly doesn't warrant a post.]
So, we flew into Calgary because it was cheaper — as near as I can recall it was about $150 less [per person] than flying directly into Montana for the dates we needed to travel. I don’t think I would go that way again though. It added a few hours of driving at each end of the trip, time I would rather have spent hiking or something. The drive from Calgary was pretty boring — very flat, mountains sometimes visible to the west, nothing but farms to the east — pretty, but boring.
On Highway 2 south of Calgary
We stayed one night in Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta before crossing into the USA for Glacier National Park. The most striking thing about Waterton was that the campground was totally riddled with ground squirrel burrows and there were lots of deer that were obviously used to people. Most people respected them as wild animals. I saw a few that tried to feed them, pose with them, or allowed their children to chase them. People are idiots. [That's why I hate people.]
Overall, I wasn’t all that impressed with Waterton. [To be fair, we didn't spend enough time there to really explore it.] It was kind of cool though to take the Chief Mountain Highway to the U.S. border. We caught a glimpse of a grizzly bear just a few feet from the road. But it wasn’t safe to stop at that point on the road so I have no photos. Just minutes prior to that we had passed two people on bicycles and I wish I could have seen their faces when they pedaled past!
Canadian border marker
We had reservations for two nights on the West Glacier side of the park and then three nights on the East Glacier side of the park. We chose the only campgrounds in the park that took reservations [because wouldn't it suck to travel all that way and then have to scramble for a place to stay?] and one night [the first of our three on the east side] at a KOA. If I go again, I’d rather stay in one place. The free shuttle bus system inside the park is pretty good [as long as you remain a little flexible in your schedule] and there are outside shuttle companies that go places the park shuttles don’t. Besides, private vehicles are allowed almost everywhere except that large vehicles [like our RV] are prohibited on parts of the Going to the Sun Road. Also, the KOA in St. Mary is big and ugly and the staff was rude.
Here’s something you’re not likely to see a lot of in Glacier National Park: glaciers. Most of them have melted away completely and those that are still there are rapidly shrinking. But they leave behind some gorgeous topography. Here’s something I saw a lot of in GNP: wildlife! We saw marmots, deer, mountain goats, and longhorn sheep [oh, and more ground squirrels -- those things are everywhere!] in close proximity to people on more than one trail. We heard reports of sightings of bear, elk, and wolves — all of which I’d have liked to have seen. One of the trails we hiked had been closed a couple days prior to our hike due to bear activity. The Park website has extensive lists of plants and animals and where you might spot them.
One of the reasons we traveled north was to get a break from the oppressive heat of a central Florida summer. Turns out we landed in a heat wave — daytime high temps in the 80s every day! At least it was cooler in the evenings, but the weather did curtail my activity a little. [Not to mention that we packed cold-weather clothing that was totally useless.] I bailed out on our first big hike and took an easy day the next day because the heat and the altitude [more than 1800 feet elevation gain over about 3.3 miles] just sucked all the energy out of me. To be fair, the description of the trail [the Apgar Outlook trail] did explain that due to a loss of foliage to a fire the trail is in full sun pretty much the whole way. Plus I could be in better shape. My friends both continued on to the summit, but one of them took it easy the next day as well.
Fortuitously, the rest of my hikes I weathered much better and there is a lot to see even on easy hikes. In fact, that Hidden Lake Overlook is just 1.5 miles [and only 460 feet of elevation gain] from one of the visitor centers. Even with some of the trail still covered in snow as it was [in late July!] it was well worth the effort. [If you make the trek in flip-flops or high heels -- as some people do, believe it or not -- you will be the source of derision to the better-prepared hikers. Probably not to your face though. We'll just shake our heads in bewilderment and laugh at you behind your back. But if that's how you want to enjoy your travels, more power to you, I guess...]
Overlooking Hidden Lake
For sheer panoramic beauty I loved the first one-third or so of the Highline Trail. Acrophobes won’t be comfortable with the sheer 1000 foot drops at the edge of some parts of the trail though. We hiked the whole 11 miles [it has a shuttle stop at each end] but that first part was by far the best.
Watch your step on the Highline Trail
The only other longish hike I did was to Iceberg Lake — 4.8 miles each way with 1200 foot elevation gain. The first half mile is pretty steep but the rest pretty gentle. We almost skipped this hike because it had been raining since the night before and there was thunder and lightning even as we ate breakfast. We got a really lucky break though [because, honestly it was a rather foolish decision] when the rain stopped shortly after we set out. Three hours later we were sitting in the sun next to icebergs.
Iceberg Lake
Would I go again? Yes. There are over 700 miles of trails and I covered a small fraction of that. The park rangers and volunteers were all friendly and ready to help and answer questions. The wildlife viewing was terrific. The only drawback… there’s still so much else in the world I want to see….
In my recent post on the tech services at Glacier National Park I inadvertently left off the fact that they have podcasts too. How could I forget podcasts? I dunno, I just did.
You can download from the GNP site here or for free from iTunes. They encourage you to do so before your visit, but you can bring your laptop to a visitor center in the park to get them too.
I’ll have more info (and photos, of course) from my trip to Glacier National Park (GNP) soon. But here are a few things I found interesting:
GNP has webcams. This one has a nest of ospreys and is right next to one of the visitor centers. They had a telescope set up in the visitor center when I was there aimed at this nest too.
For a park that is a year away from its centennial celebration I think this is all pretty cool. (I haven’t checked how many other National Parks are stepping into the 21st century this way — I hope it’s all of them. I found these useful when planning my trip.)
Greetings from Canadia! We made it to Calgary yesterday afternoon. [Turns out it was cheaper to fly to Calgary and drive down than it was to fly to Montana and rent the RV there. We just needed to factor dealing with customs into the plan as far as getting and transporting food across the border. Anyway...] The weather forecast is calling for the hottest day of the year! Thirty-one degrees! Of course that’s degrees Celcius, but it reminds me of a story that I have probably told before. [You don't really think that's going to stop me from repeating it do you?]
A few years ago I was in Calgary. We were going up to Banff and Jasper that time. The morning after our arrival we had the TV on while getting ready and the weather report called for the temperature to be “soaring up to 35 degrees!” To my ear that sounded really odd. It took me several seconds for that to register that, of course, it was 35 C. And another several seconds to make a mental estimate of the conversion. Damn, that really is hot! So today may be the hottest day of the year so far, but it’s no 35….
I am also saddened to hear the news of the passing of Walter Cronkite. I always liked him. Even though I’ve never been a news hound I’ve really come to appreciate how good he really was by contrasting with how bad TV news has gotten since he retired. [I briefly considered selling T-shirts with the caption, "I'd Rather Not," under Dan's face with the universal red circle/slash -- is there a name for that thing? Seems like I should know. Anyway...]
We pick up the RV today and we’re off to Waterton. Did you know that Canada has a National Park adjacent to Glacier NP in the States? Well, they do. And that’s where we are heading first. The rest of the week we’ll be south of the border [meaning back in the U.S.]. Don’t worry, I’ll take notes. And photos, of course. I know that’s what you really want anyway. I’ll shut up now.
There’s no automatic spell-check on this hotel computer and I’m road-weary so be kind if I’ve got mistakes here. Point them out and I’ll fix them later. BTW, “Canadia” in the greeting was on purpose. No offense intended. Look for a couple ghost posts this week; I don’t know whether I’ll have access before I get home. Be well!
I’m off [yeah, always a little off] to see Glacier National Park in Montana. I may not be near interwebs access for a week or so. But I may schedule a ghost post or two to publish next week anyway. Hope all is well with you!
I plan to have lots of photos to share when I get back.
Driving between central Florida and Louisville usually takes between 13 and 15 hours, depending on traffic, weather, and how tired I am. Still, I am able to make it in a single day. So far.
About half the trip is through Georgia. It occurred to me recently that on most of these drives I am in Georgia when the sun sets. “The sun sets in Georgia” seems to have a ring to it. Maybe a song title? I don’t know.
In my car, alone, is just about the only place I sing. Out loud. Sometimes really loud. Be grateful you aren’t there to hear it. Of course, if you were there I wouldn’t be singing so you wouldn’t hear it. Never mind.
There are a few CDs that I listen to on almost every long drive. Some songs that I know will make me laugh. Some that bring me to the verge of tears. [Not that I would ever really cry while I'm driving because of some stupid song because that would be... stupid. And unmanly.]
I have spent almost half my life [so far] in Florida. [You know the difference between uranium and me? Uranium has a half-life more than I do. bah-DUM-bum] With the current state of the economy, this is a terrible time to think about changing jobs or moving. But I do. Think about it.
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